Opening The Door To Saltwater

Introduction

At some point every freshwater aquarist has done it, while going about their freshwater business at the LFS, they catch a peak of the saltwater section. It turns into a walk down the aisles as though a kid in a zoo, eyes wide, gasping at the amazing sizes, shapes, and colors. The excitement turns to dismay when reminded of the baggage that accompanies any saltwater endeavor: large tanks, expensive lighting, extra equipment, and that mysterious RO/DI machine? "Maybe someday" is usually the next thing muttered as the chain gang heads back to the aisles of filter pads and gravel vacs. What if I said it was possible to start a saltwater tank without taking out a second mortgage on the house or selling a vital organ? Many of the so called "necessities" of years past have been replaced with simple, yet more efficient methods as we continue to try and unlock the mysteries of the sea in a captive environment. This new knowledge has opened up the availability of saltwater systems, and this article will detail one of the ways to successfully get started with a fish-only or fish-only with invertebrate setup. I chose these two types because they are the easiest and most economical way to join this hobby, not to mention upgrading to more advanced systems only requires adding certain elements, while keeping the core principles the same.

Research and Planning

While many things have changed, one of the most important factors for success remains as vital as ever, research. Saltwater aquariums are a dynamic environment, therefore it is important to create a foundation of knowledge. This is not just for our own sake, 90% of saltwater livestock is still directly harvested from the oceans. As aquarists, it is our duty to learn the proper husbandry of the animals we keep, and do so responsibly for the sake of the oceans' reefs as a whole. I would suggest to begin reading, researching, and planning the livestock for the tank several months prior to filling it the first time. Suggested reading would include Robert Fenner's book, The Conscientious Marine Aquarist as well as John Tullock's The Natural Reef Aquarium. Both cover everything needed to start successfully in saltwater, whether it be a fish-only tank all the way to a full blown reef tank. Planning the livestock ahead of time helps to curb the "spontaneous purchase syndrome" that afflicts many new (and old!) hobbyists, which and can easily lead to very volatile environments within the tank. It will also be essential for the inhabitants of your tank, who can only thrive when housed in an appropriate environment. The following material should only be used as a reference and is not meant to take the place of the information provided by the above mentioned, and other similar resources.

Tank Setup

With the initial planning and research completed, the time finally comes to set up the tank. There is no real tank size that one "must" use, but I suggest starting as large as possible. The reason for this is the smaller the tank, the quicker the water parameters can change and the more attention it will require. For example, it is much easier for a beginner to have a system where a typical day of evaporation or an unknown death doesn't change the water parameters to dangerous levels in a short amount of time. Since this article is targeted at starting a saltwater tank without an enormous budget, it will be assumed that a 55g will be the largest tank that can easily follow these setup instructions without deviation. When ready to set up the tank, lay out the equipment and make sure everything is there to begin. Although there are several methods for starting a saltwater tank, this article will only discuss the use of a Deep Sand Bed, which uses a 4"+ bed of sand as the main source of biofiltration, supplemented by liverock (a complete explanation of DSB's can be found at Ron Shimek's DSB Page and its related links). The sand used can be playsand from Home Depot or somewhere similar, the only requirement is that it be "sugar sized" grains of sand. Other essential equipment needed would include the tank, cover, substrate, power heads, a heater, hydrometer, thermometer, test kits, and a cocktail shrimp for each 25g of water. Fill the tank and check for leaks. Afterwards, one can either drain the tank or add the substrate directly to the water. Personally, I like to drain the tank and then add the substrate which reduces the amount of time the tank remains cloudy. It is important to get the depth of the substrate to at least 4" to allow for the development of the denitrifying zone in the bottom layer of the sand bed. Install the powerheads into the rear corners of the tank and direct them towards each other so the currents meet in the middle of the front pane of glass. This is the easiest way to create random current throughout the tank. Also, place the heater and set it to keep a temperature between 80-82 degrees. When the tank is the appropriate temperature, add the synthetic salt mix, most will yield a specific gravity of 1.019 for each cup of salt per gallon of water. Allow the salt to dissolve and tweak it by measuring with the hydrometer and adding salt as needed until a specific gravity of 1.022-1.025 is reached (Note: a full day's wait may be required to achieve a balance in the tank and an accurate reading). With the proper temperature and specific gravity parameters achieved, add the cocktail shrimp and prepare for several weeks of cycling (for a simple explanation of a tank's "cycle" refer to This Page). In some cases in can take a full six weeks. Use this time to review your stocking list or do further research. . Lighting Lighting could have been addressed earlier, but since it was not needed for initial set up, I'll discuss it here. It comes in many varieties and applications. A simple reference guide such as this cannot effectively cover it in a concise manner. Staying within the guidelines of our "simple" approach, the lighting can remain as the regular NO (Normal Output) bulbs that accompany the light strips. I would suggest though, replacing the bulbs with different color (k) bulbs designed for saltwater tanks. These will simply make for a brighter, more colorful display.

Preparing for Livestock

With ammonia and nitrite levels at 0, the cycle of the tank is complete. The next step is to add live rock. At this point, it is preferred to buy "cured" rock since the tank has already established its bacterial colony. I suggest 1-2 pounds per gallon of water, but this is certainly not absolutely necessary as the sand bed is responsible for the majority of the biofiltration. To get started, add enough to be aesthetically pleasing and to provide some hiding places for future livestock. More rock can be added at any time. After waiting a few days to insure there are no spikes in the water parameters, the detrivore/cleanup crew can be added (note: with the resources provided, all terms should be somewhat familiar at this point which is why I haven't defined any.). I would wait another few weeks to allow the "critters" to establish healthy breeding colonies before making the first livestock addition.

Adding Livestock

Well, the time has finally arrived!! It would take several more pages to go over the different inhabitants one could have in a tank, I will simply detail how to add them. When deciding what to add, keep in mind that the least aggressive inhabitant should be added first and the most aggressive last. With that said, a quarantine tank is ESSENTIAL for the success of a tank regardless of what is added. This need not be a major expense or effort, but trying to treat disease in your main tank will be, and I'm sure many a beginner have left the hobby from the frustration of having a tank wiped out by a preventable disease or parasite. Use a 10 gallon tank with a heater and power filter. The tank should be bare, but a piece of PVC pipe or something similar is suggested to provide cover. Keep the new livestock quarantined preferably for two weeks, doing water changes as necessary. If any diseases are present, treat appropriately and wait another two weeks after it is symptom free, Do NOT play Russian roulette with your livestock!! Once a disease or parasite has infected the display tank, it is very hard to elimate it, quarantining will easily prevent this. I also recommend not adding more than one new inhabitant every two weeks, this will allow the tank time to adjust to the new bioload and time for the inhabitant to establish itself. (note: acclimation needs to be done whenever adding new livestock to either the quarantine or main tank. Research each new addition and acclimate accordingly, different livestock will require different levels of acclimation. The main thing to remember is to never add any water from your fish store to either you quarantine or main tank.)

Maintenance

One of the best features of using a DSB is that it is relatively maintenance free. Cleaning the glass, top-off of evaporated water, and weekly to bimonthly water changes are all that is required. If the tank is acrylic, be sure to use an appropriate cleaning tool, there are also several available for glass tanks. For top-off, be sure to remember only to do so with fresh water as the salt does not evaporate out of the tank. Keep in mind that adding too much freshwater can cause a measurable change in salinity quickly, so be sure to not let the water level get too low before replenishing. Finally, 10-15% weekly to bimonthly water changes should be sufficient to export nutrients and MUST become a ritual for all beginners. Mix the water a day a head of time to allow the water time to stabilize before doing the change. There is no synthetic salt on the market today that can be mixed and immediately added to the tank.

Final Comments

Hopefully, this article has shown how much simpler a saltwater tank can be than most often portrayed. Still, once started and feeling bold, all beginners need to keep in mind that just because the system is cycled and stocking has begun, the tank will need to continue to age for an average of 6 months before it is truly a stable environment. Water parameters should be closely monitored and algae outbreaks should be expected for these first six months or so. Towards the end of this period, they will occur less frequently and for a shorter duration.

Good luck and remember that patience is the key to a successful saltwater experience!

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